Today, I drove from Kushiro toward Nemuro, a journey of about two hours each way. As on the previous day, the morning was covered in thick fog, and I worried that I might not be able to see anything at all. But as I approached Nemuro, the fog gradually began to lift, and eventually the sky opened into a clear blue.

My first stop was Shunkunitai, a coastal wetland. I know very little about birds, but apparently it is well known among birdwatchers from both Japan and abroad. As it was a weekday, there were few visitors, and I was able to walk slowly along the quiet wooden boardwalk.

Next, I headed to Cape Nosappu. There stands the Cape Nosappu Lighthouse, said to be the easternmost lighthouse on mainland Japan. It was small, white, and gently rounded, with a surprisingly charming appearance.

Across the sea, the islands known in Japan as the Northern Territories were visible. Looking toward the islands where Japanese people once lived left me with complicated feelings. I also visited the nearby museum, where photographs and documents made the history feel less like something from a textbook and more like a reality that still remains in this place.

Afterward, I drove to Meiji Park in central Nemuro. Three brick silos with red roofs stood in the middle of a wide green lawn. Against the blue sky and bright grass, they formed a spacious landscape that felt unmistakably Hokkaido.

My final destination was Cape Ochiishi. From the parking area, it takes about twenty minutes to reach the cape along a narrow wooden boardwalk. The path passes through the forest, and when I emerged from the trees, an enormous grassland suddenly opened before me.

Beyond the grass stood a red-and-white lighthouse. A little farther away, deer were freely grazing. There was no one else around.

I lay down in the grass and spent about thirty minutes doing nothing. The wind felt pleasant, and I watched the deer quietly feeding. Still, being alone in such an empty grassland made me slightly nervous about the possibility of encountering a bear, especially after seeing several bear-sighting notices around the area. I did not stay for very long, but even that brief period of complete solitude felt deeply luxurious.

The grassland at Cape Ochiishi was the most memorable place I visited that day. I did nothing special. I simply lay in the grass and looked at the sky, the lighthouse, and the deer. Even so, it was the quietest and most peaceful moment of the entire day.

Planning a Visit to Nemuro?

For practical information about Cape Nosappu, local footpaths, accommodation, restaurants, transportation, and other places to explore, visit the English-language website of the Nemuro Tourism Association. It is a useful resource, especially for international visitors planning a trip to this remote part of eastern Hokkaido.

NEMURO — Nemuro Tourism Association
https://nemuro-hokkaido.com

At the Eastern Edge of Japan

A Fox in the Mist